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A beautifully bespoke suit speaks volumes about its wearer

May/June 2006
Living well
Suits you, sir: A beautifully bespoke suit speaks volumes about its wearer

By Nicola Doyle

You wouldn’t expect James Bond to take on the world in a Marks and Spencer suit would you? Even an off-the-rack Gucci or Givenchy doesn’t cut it with our dashing hero. Instead Bond opts for bespoke tailored suits that cut as fine a figure as its wearer.

Men who have their suits tailored for them experience a level of quality, service, selection and individuality that simply cannot be found in off-the-rack garments – not to mention the kudos and confidence that comes from wearing a beautifully bespoke item of the finest fit and fabric.

Bespoke suits are custom fitted to each individual and can be made with special details, such as hidden pockets or a flamboyant lining, not available in off-the-rack suits. Customers also have the choice of thousands of fabrics and styles – allowing you to express your own personal style as subtly or as boldly as you dare.  .....

When it comes to bespoke, it’s not just London that boasts quality. Asian cities like Singapore and Hong Kong also feature speciality tailors who are a cut above the rest. Made-to-measure suits have been a Hong Kong speciality since the first half of the last century, when it was reputed to be home to more than 1,000 tailors. Today, the region’s legendary tailor shops number less than 250, with the most skilled and revered houses still going strong.

The Mandarin Hotel is the most venerable house. Famous for its European-cut suits (as good as Savile Row) it has a list of distinguished clients, including ex-governor Chris Patten (Richard Nixon was also outfitted here before his China trip in 1972). Also at the top end of the market, Hong Kong firms such as Ascot Chang, NobleHouse and Sam’s Tailor, have outfitted everyone from European royal families and American and British politicians to a range of investment bankers, fund managers, CEO’s and directors.

"Yes, there are fewer tailors," says Vijay Wadhwani, master tailor at NobleHouse. "However, they are committed. Customers still want tailored clothing. People don’t get service very often nowadays and we offer it in abundance. With this in mind I see only growth in our future."

Wadhwani, who learnt his trade in Hong Kong more than 36 years ago from his uncle, a master tailor of the 1950s and 60s, is typical of the surviving Hong Kong tailors who continue the tradition of quality, in both product and service.

"Bespoke is actually a term that dates from the 17th century when tailors held the full lengths of cloth in their premises," explains Wadhwani. "When a customer chose a length of material, it was said to have ‘been spoken for’. Hence a tailor who makes your clothes individually, to your specific personal requirements, is called bespoke."

Offering some of the best bespoke tailoring in Hong Kong, the first thing that stands out about NobleHouse, where clients pay between US$550 and US$1,100 (depending on fabrics chosen) for a custom-made suit, is its skilled staff and dedication to detail.

Most have over 40 years, and before any garment is made, more than 35 detailed measurements are taken and a personal pattern hand drafted and cut,” says Wadhwani. "A single tailor is given the parts to sew together, from the earliest fitting stages to the final completed suit. Each suit is 90% handmade, even down to the buttonholes." .....

Whichever country you choose to shop in, there’s no doubt that a bespoke suit sorts the men from the boys. Being measured by a master tailor, dedicated to achieving a perfect style and fit just for you, is arguably the ultimate way to dress.